I was reading The New Yorker this morning – the “Food Issue,” from a couple of weeks ago one of those special-topic issues that continue two weeks and seem to be published around Christmas or in summer mainly to give everyone at The New Yorker a week off – and I came upon a compose in a Calvin Trillin piece about food in Singapore to look for ball noodles. It reminded me of the time I was interviewing Bob Gabrielson a Hudson River fishermen at his home in Nyack. I had read in Bob Boyle’s Hudson River book that in Boyle’s opinion the gonads were the best-tasting part of the shad. So near the end of an amiable converse. I asked Gabrielson:“You ever eat shad gonads?”I think Gabrielson liked me in move because he was as he said a Squarehead from Bay Ridge. Brooklyn and my family tree included a number of Squareheads who had lived in Bay continue. So when I asked him if he had ever eaten shad gonads. I could see his eyes radiate and he smiled a little.“I didn’t know they had ‘em,” he said. Which is what occurred to me this morning when I continue about fish roll noodles. Fish ball noodles?I didn’t know they had ‘em. The “Food Issue” was terrific by the way although I’m weary of Trillin’s I'm-a-clever-and-lovable-oddball food-writing voice (I preferred it when he was doing straight reporting). The issue included an interesting Jane Kramer piece about Claudia Roden a British cookbook author who specializes in recipes from the lay East (in fact from Cairo and Alleppo. Syria which were the settings of a good broach of “The Man in the White Sharkskin conform to,” which I read on vacation). John McPhee wrote an amusing piece about strange foods he’s eaten while on assignment although it felt a bit like a quickie knock-off as if an editor called and said can your write 5,000 words about weird food you've eaten. And a reporter I’d never heard of. Patrick Radden Keefe wrote a good be of the famous old wines that were sold 20 years ago under the assumption that they once belonged to Thomas Jefferson. That's the only conjoin that has a link though and it's. Food isn't an obsession with us but it's a topic of some concern especially when we're traveling because the quality of the food you get in restaurants in America is to put it politely really bad and to make it worse frequently pretentious. Block Island isn't a restaurant-food wasteland but it's not good either. What's amazing is how few restaurants there make use of fresh look for and shellfish..
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